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Weston S Mare Refurb – Wiring and Plumbing

Richard Greenland

Having neutralised the dry rot in last week’s blog, I’m onto the first-fix wiring and plumbing. First-fix means everything that goes in before the plasterer, and includes most of the pipework and wires that are hidden in walls and ceilings, but not the final connect up at the outlets. Doors and architraves also have to come off, so the plasterer can get a flush finish to the door linings.

Old kitchen

Anyway I’m doing most of the plumbing myself as there is no gas in the flat. All the hot and cold supplies and the wastes have to be swapped over between the kitchen and bathroom and the hot water tank moved. I’ve done most of it in push-fit plastic as it’s much quicker than copper, and is concealed in the walls or under the floor, bath or kitchen units. A good tip is to mark an inch from the end of each pipe, to make sure it’s been pushed all the way into the fittings. Also I fit the metal supporting inserts immediately I cut the pipes, as it’s all too easy to forget them when connecting up. Without the inserts, the pipe may be watertight to start with, but soon develop a leak when the plastic deflects. Also to be careful which supply you are connecting to – I once accidentally connected the toilet to a hot supply – every time you flushed, steam came out! Surprisingly, the hardest thing about the plumbing was drilling through a wall two feet thick of metamorphic limestone

Plumbing to adapt old kitchen to bathroom

to join the new wastes and soil pipe into the stack.

John the Plasterer, a good guy and willing to travel 07779660990

I could have attempted the wiring myself then got it certified by a third party, but since I’m not fully familiar with the 17th edition building regs for wiring it makes more sense getting a qualified electrician to do the lot. Likewise plastering is something I can do but a plasterer who does it every day is much faster, so attempting it myself is false economy.

Both tradesmen were both nice guys, but having other people on such a small job reminded me why I like working alone. It’s impossible not to get in each other’s way, and you waste time chatting. Two men working together rarely get 2 x as much work done as one man working alone. There are exceptions, such as plasterboarding a ceiling, especially with 8’ x 4’ sheets which I prefer to reduce waste. I have a technique for doing this alone involving wooden props, but it’s always a struggle, especially with very high ceilings like these. I did the lounge on my own, but John the plasterer kindly offered to help me with the bedroom and we did it in a quarter of the time. He’s also been very helpful moving things between rooms, so I’ll round his money up from £360 to £400. He was charging me £120 a day labour only, 3 rooms in 3 days, which is very reasonable for a good plasterer.

 

Devious Decorating Tips for Flat Walls.

Richard Greenland

Painting and decorating is something many a landlord attempts for themselves at some point. It’s worth having a go yourself for typical mid-range rentals provided you follow some basic guidelines.

First rule – don’t strip wallpaper unless you have to! It may be all that is holding the plaster on the wall. Unless the paper is very textured you can often just paint straight over it. If you have to strip it then use a steamer.

If you do decide to strip, it’s often cheaper and quicker to get them re-skimmed with plaster than re-papered with all the preparation involved in getting the walls flat. But if the old plaster already has existing paint, the new plaster may not adhere properly. So you have two choices. For a more expensive but better finish, chip off the old paint and plaster and start again. Or to save money, sand and fill the walls as flat as possible, then cover them with a slightly embossed paper. This hides a multitude of sins, especially as some papers come ready finished, so no need even to paint! The embossed papers are tougher than the ones with a textured plastic surface coating, which can get scraped off. Woodchip is too dated.

kitchen being installed after decorating

Second rule is to decorate BEFORE you fit things like kitchens and floor coverings. People often assume that the decorating comes last, but then you have to cover up your new kitchen and ‘cut in’ around (carefully paint around) all the cabinets. Much quicker to just paint the walls first.

Third rule is start from the top and work down. This isn’t essential but just makes sense. Do the ceiling first, then any splats on the walls can be cleaned off and painted over. Do the walls next, any roller flecks on the skirting and woodwork can then be sanded off. When you do the woodwork, don’t bother if it goes half an inch or so up the walls. You don’t want to be painstakingly ‘cutting in’ along the walls with three coats of primer, undercoat and gloss. You can do it later in one process, with the emulsion on a brush.

Old kitchen and bathroom tiles can be painted white or neutral colours with specialised tile paint. It does scrape off if subject to heavy abrasion, but is a lot cheaper than new tiles. You can also get a special white marker pen to draw in the grout lines! I’ve got lots of tips to save on tiling but they’ll have to go in another blog.

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May 2012

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2 Bedroom Garden Flat

£2200 pcm
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