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Refurbishing a Flat with Too Much Kitchen!

Richard Greenland

The last blog was about fitting the bathroom and the kitchen. I normally decorate before fitting the kitchen as it’s

Too much kitchen!

easier and less messy that way, but I fitted the kitchen carcasses and worktops first this time as the new plaster was still wet. I’m onto the finishing-off stages now, I’ve left the doors and end panels off the kitchen to make the painting easier, and I’ve done most of the tiling.

I did make one silly error in that I fitted too much kitchen! My other flats have all been two-beds or large one-beds with separate kitchens, so I’ve got used to them needing a decent number of units for storage etc. This is a small one-bed with a kitchenette in the lounge. Kitchenette being the operative word – not kitchen! Too many units take up too much space and can restrict the living area. In the first photo the kitchen carcasses cover two walls. However when I got estate agents in, they both said the same thing – the kitchen is too big, where are they going to put sofas and chairs or a TV? So three of my carcasses and the worktop that I’d just jig-jointed had to come out. Several of the electrical sockets also had to be moved. So a lesson learned for me.

Less kitchen

The second photo shows the left hand carcasses removed and the worktop re-fitted, three electrical sockets in the corner where there was only one, the tiling progressing and a length of white flex to supply the immersion tank. This is installed in the brown cupboard in the corner, which slots into a hole in the wall between the kitchen and bathroom. I did this because there are few other places to put it in such a small flat, and it needs to be high to generate enough water pressure. The 4” x 2” timber stud wall is strong enough to support the weight and lift it clear of the worktop space. I’ve been doing all my own plumbing up to now, but I got a plumber in to connect the immersion tank. There were four pipes coming out of it and no instructions. My usual position is that if any job is likely to involve a lot of chin-scratching or more than one attempt, I delegate it elsewhere.

I’ve also plumbed in the electric shower and done most of the tiling in the bathroom.

Pimlico Apocalypse (Tate Art!)

John Martin (1789–1854) was a key figure in the nineteenth-century art world, renowned for his dramatic scenes of apocalyptic destruction and biblical disaster, the most popular painter of his day, he specialised in vast canvases of the ancient world in chaos, yet he was scorned by the art critics of his time.

Tate Britain Pimlico London

Image via Wikipedia


Pimlico’s Art Gallery (The Tate Britain) is running a major exhibition (the first show dedicated to his paintings for over 30 years) bringing together his most famous paintings from collections around the world.

Robust but Classy Decorating in London Flats.

Richard Greenland

This week’s blog is a continuation of last week’s decorating tips.

I like to emulsion the walls before gloss-painting the woodwork, so that any spray splats on the woodwork can be sanded off when dry.

New plaster should first be ‘mist-coated’ with a 50/50 mix of water and paint and a bit of PVA adhesive. This penetrates the plaster surface better, providing better adhesion. Failure to do so may result in paint peeling in damp conditions in bathrooms and kitchens.

Rollering is quicker if you do it systematically in rows rather than dodging about in all directions. For ceilings use a roller extension handle which is easier than a stepladder. Minimise spray by rollering steadily and not too fast.

Consider silk finish paint for high-traffic areas like hallways and kitchens. It doesn’t collect the dirt like matt and is easier to clean.

For the woodwork there is a definite process. For typical run-of-the-mill rentals the following will give a reasonable finish fairly quickly:

1. All old gloss paint must be sanded lightly to provide a key. Failure to do this may cause new paint to peel especially if it has a rough life in a rented flat.

2. Thoroughly dust off the woodwork with a soft brush and use a hoover to clear the room of dust.

3. Fill any dents with plaster-based filler and use flexible caulk to fill internal gaps such as between skirting and walls.

4. When the filler is dry, sand it flat. Dust off the woodwork lightly and hoover again.

5. Spot-prime any bare wood and filler. I don’t recommend acrylic/ water based ‘quick drying’ paints over old oil paint as they can peel if treated roughly. On new wood they’re fine.

6. Apply undercoat.

7. Lightly sand the dry undercoat to remove ‘nibs’. Dust off again. Probably no need to vacuum as it can just spread stray dust at this stage.

8. Apply top coat thinly to avoid runs.

I never use ‘one coat’ paint. It doesn’t do what it says on the tin!

water-based materials and battery tools stored in the warm

Tip – In cold conditions take home gloss paint to keep it warm for the morning. While working keep it warm in a bowl of warm water. It’ll spread much more easily and run less.

Tip 2 – You can store rollers and emulsion brushes wrapped tightly in polythene bags for several days. Store oil brushes in water, with the bristles completely covered. Flick the water out before using them again.

Tip 3 – Don’t let water-based paints (or any water-based products) get frosted. It breaks down the polymer binders which make it set properly. You can sometimes tell if paint has been frosted as it loses its thick, viscous consistency and seems runny. Likewise PVA dries chalky white, not translucent. Some rechargeable batteries are also damaged by frost.

Next week I’ll talk about getting rid of Artex, the bane of many a renovator’s life.

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To View please phone Ruth on 0747607467

May 2012

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2 Bedroom Garden Flat

£2200 pcm
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