Fire Prevention.

Richard Greenland

I wrote about annual pre-emptive maintenance last week, with particular emphasis on flooding, a very common hazard for landlords. However fire can be far more devastating.

The easiest way to prevent it is by tenant education. For instance, did you know that a faulty mobile phone on charge is a common cause of house fires? This burnt out a house just three doors away from my own. It was restricted to just one room, but the smoke damage, compounded by water damage from the fire service, made the whole house uninhabitable for six months. I always talk to new tenants about this, and point to a clause in my AST. It states that phones should only be charged on a non-combustible surface such as a ceramic plate, and only when the tenant is in.

Phone charging safely

I’ve also noticed that young tenants in particular can be quite blaze about piles of magazines or the cord of a toaster hanging over the edge of a cooker. This also gets a mention in my AST.

Smoking is an obvious hazard. If you accept tenants who smoke, Sam Collett suggests in her excellent blog that you require them to smoke outside. She says they often readily agree, though I’m not sure how enforceable this is.

For blinds and furniture covers I prefer cotton or linen to nylons as the former are less combustible. I don’t have curtains partly because these are more prone to ignition from candles.

Candles are a particular hazard. Sam had a flat burnt out because the tenant had run out of electricity at the meter, so had tea-lights all over the flat, including the (highly flammable) carpet! I provide dedicated dishes for candles, the use of them is required in the AST, and candles only permitted for dining. Again this isn’t enforceable in practice, but hopefully it focuses the tenant’s mind. We almost had a fire in our own house when a candle in the bedroom burnt down and set fire to my wife’s plastic hairbrush and a book. I tell new tenants this story as a cautionary tale.

Finally, if there is an open fire, insist that the tenants use a proper spark-guard, and keep rugs back from the hearth.

I’m not sure what I’ll write about next week, if anyone has any suggestions or ‘property-doctor’ type questions then send them in and I’ll gladly reply. If not I’m considering a series of blogs on things to look for when buying a house.

Rich

Tags: candles, curtains, fire, Maintenance, rich, smoking
Posted in General on June 1st, 2010 |

3 Responses to “Fire Prevention.”

Sam says:

June 1, 2010 at 9:59 am

This is an excellent post and I had no idea that mobile chargers were so dangerous. I will now ensure that I educate all tenants on this.

RE: candles since the incident of the fire at the property we have added a clause that they are prohibited from use.

You also mention about the smoke and water damage to a property following a fire. In my blog where I write about the fire which happened I need to write an update. 7 months on and the flats are finally now ready to be lived in again.HOWEVER – the damage done by the water jets used by the fire brigade is still coming out now (damp patches). I have been told it can take over 12 months for a propert to fully dry out! You can read my blog about the tenant fire here: http://wp.me/pCIxO-z

Reply
Richard says:

June 1, 2010 at 12:05 pm

Re the water damage, yup sometimes the cure can be almost as bad as the disease!

My son’s mobile once spontaniously ignited while it was on charge. Apparently it’s not uncommon.

Rich

Reply
Nick Parkin (Pimlico Flats) says:

June 2, 2010 at 5:31 pm

A property up the road from me burnt out just before Christmas. The family spent Christmas camping out with neighbours. The property is still a long way from being habitable (6 months later) because the fire created dangerous chemicals & the property is still being de-toxified.

The cause of the fire (clue in the beginning) …… the family put real candles on the Christmas Tree!

Reply

Annual Pre-emptive Maintenance.

Richard Greenland

Last week I looked at cheaper alternatives to brand new double glazing. This week I’ll discuss inexpensive jobs you should do at the outset of any new tenancy and annually to avoid expensive repairs later.

For safety reasons, landlords are obliged to carry out gas checks annually, and appliances should be PAT tested. However, cost-wise water is usually the biggest problem. Checking and maintaining any fittings & equipment likely to leak is incredibly cost-effective.

Washing machines should be inspected annually for slow leaks from the hose, door-seal and underneath. Even a slow leak can cause a lot of damage over time, or suddenly become a fast leak!

Other common problem areas are waste pipes under the bath, shower, sinks, basins and toilet cisterns, as well as the shower hose. These are usually screw or push fittings and can become loose. While the bath panel is off, look for signs of water running behind the silicone. Also check the silicone around the shower, and behind the kitchen sink.

Rain water and damp are the other main causes of water problems. Gutters should be checked for blockages after the autumn fall. Visit on a rainy day to make sure water isn’t sloshing over the top and down your walls. It can soak in causing damp patches inside. Also check overflow pipes aren’t dripping. A ball valve in the loft, or on a toilet cistern, is cheap to replace compared to rot caused by penetrating moisture. I dealt with other forms of damp in the last four-blogs-but-one.

Isolation valves under sink

Prepare for the worst and avoid additional costs. Install isolation valves to every outlet, avoiding having to turn off the whole system to repair a leaking tap washer, at massive inconvenience to tenants.

Airbricks should be kept clear to allow ventilation to potentially damp basements. Floors above ventilated basements should be insulated, and NEVER have bare floorboards, unless the gaps between have been thoroughly sealed with matching-colour caulk or silicone. Without the gap-sealing, the rooms will be very cold and drafty. If they have any choice, your tenants will leave.

Drains should be inspected for fatty deposits, and debris blocking drain grids removed.

Roof tiles & chimney mortar joints should be visually checked from the ground (gritty deposits falling down chimneys is a sign of problems).

Also check silicone seals around windows and doors. These can let in a lot of water, especially at the bottom.

Make sure any outward-opening doors can be hooked back, otherwise the wind can blow them off.

These things don’t cost much to do but cost a lot NOT to do. Most structural damage to properties could easily be avoided with a little forethought.

Fire is the other major hazard, fortunately much rarer than flooding but even more devastating. I’ll discuss it next week.

Tags: Ball valve, Basement, bathroom, Blog, Business, Flooding, Home & Garden, Maintenance, Pre-emptive, rich, Toilet, Washing machine, Water
Posted in Repair Free Rentals on May 25th, 2010 |

2 Responses to “Annual Pre-emptive Maintenance.”

Sam says:

June 10, 2010 at 10:16 pm

Just to add – a new tip which we have been advised. Twice per year for properties with double glazing we are to spray the hinges with silicone spray to ensure they maintain well. This can be done on routine inspections. To replace is a 2 man job and simple hinges will soon cost you much more!

Reply
Richard says:

June 11, 2010 at 9:22 am

Great tip Sam, thanks. Just in case anyone isn’t clear on this, it has to be silicone lube if the windows are plastic. PVC is carbon-based so normal oil or grease will dissolve the surface, as it is hydrocarbon based.

Rich

Reply

Alternative Double Glazing

Richard Greenland

Here’s a great money saving tip I’ve used countless times. Double-glazing salesmen will hate it, but you can easily upgrade your windows without installing new ones.

It’s a little known fact that secondary glazing using low emissivity glass is actually more energy-efficient than normal double glazing, as long as it’s well sealed against drafts. The much larger air gap is why. Secondary DG + low E glass exceeds the requirements of building regs Part L (conservation of heat and power) for new windows. These must have U values below 2.0 W/M2k. Secondary D/G has a theoretical range of 1.8 – 1.95 W/M2k, so get more brownie points on the EPC than normal D/G. Also the comparatively low cost means it could pay for itself very quickly in lower heating bills. For comparison, a single glazed wooden window has theoretical U value of 4.7, and a metal window 5.7! (The calculations are based on the British Fenestration Rating Council’s standard window size – 1230mm wide x 1480mm high.) The disadvantage is that secondary glazing is a bit harder to open and close.

Another alternative is to turn old wooden windows into D/G windows by remodelling them. The old glass is taken out and the rebates (the slot that holds the glass) cut deeper with a router. D/G units can then be fitted. You will usually need a thinner unit than the standard 28mm as the wood probably won’t be thick enough for more. It’s also vital to thoroughly seal all drafts with draft excluders. The brush ones work best with sliding sash windows, those with a flexible rubber skirt are best with casement windows. Sponge draft excluders work well but fall off or apart in time.

If you are doing a conversion or major renovation, Building Control will insist you upgrade the windows to the required standard (U values below 2.0 W/M2k ), or do other works bringing the building as a whole to the required insulation standard. There is a get-out clause though. If the cost of doing the work is more than you’d recover in 15 years of lower fuel bills, you don’t have to do the work. Likewise, if the cost-differential between altering existing windows with thinner D/G units, and complete replacement, is less than you’d save, you can alter the windows instead of replacing. This saves a lot of unnecessary waste. From an environmental perspective, the embodied energy spent on making and transporting new windows may outweigh their benefits to insulation. I’ve successfully used this argument many times with Building Control, but it would be prudent to check first, just in case. Also the alterations are only worthwhile if the window is in good condition. If you then combine this method with secondary DG it should be very warm indeed!

A final method for the real cheapskate landlord is to stretch clingfilm over the casement to form a gap between the glass. This makes instant, cheap but very temporary double glazing. Only effective if you also install draft excluders, see above.

Next week I’ll recommend some cheap jobs you should do at the outset with any new property, then annually, to prevent expensive repairs later.

Rich

Tags: Blog, double-glazing, Maintenance, rich
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on May 18th, 2010 |

Durable Outside Decorating for Rented London Flats

Richard Greenland

Last week I talked about why a building inspector won’t necessarily spot bad workmanship and why you should always have another method of verifying this. This week I return to specific maintenance jobs on rented property with tips on exterior decorating.

For gloss work on timber and metal, light colours and particularly white are more durable outside as they reflect sunlight so are less damaged by UV and getting hot. The same goes for plastic gutters. White will last longer than black, brown or grey. With magnolia walls it is also pleasantly neutral. The main drawback on busy streets is white shows more dirt. But a quick wipe over with a damp sponge and some detergent is a lot quicker than re-painting!

I’m happy to use inexpensive B&Q paint indoors, as own-brand paints are pretty good these days so I don’t see why I should pay almost twice just to have ‘Dulux’ on the tin. BUT when it comes to the exterior I don’t recommend skimping on paint. The overwhelming majority of the cost is for labour and scaffolding if appropriate, so you might as well splash out (sorry) on paint. I favour the Dulux Weathershield system which is formulated to dry slightly flexible.

Don’t forget, as mentioned in an earlier blog, to prime behind door and window frames and under doors before fitting them.

eaves in PVC cladding

An alternative to painting fascias and soffits (the eaves under the roof) is to cover them with proprietary white PVC strips. With all the rubbing-down and prepping required for painting, this can be just as quick and last a lot longer. There’s usually no need to replace wood unless it’s very rotten indeed. The PVC will keep it dry so the rot will not progress further. It can be fixed directly to the ends of the rafters if the fascia and soffit is too rotten in places. A special exterior grade silicone is used to seal all gaps. The PVC covers will last many times longer than paint and are surprisingly quick to install. After a recent experience with one coming astray in strong wind, I now use 2” number 10 screws with white plastic caps siliconed to the heads, as well as the usual white-capped ridged pins to fix them.

Jayne asked about how to get rid of polystyrene tiles. Most things that apply to these design disasters also apply to artex, see my blog on this little horror at http://pimlico-flats.co.uk/blog/property/removing-artless-artex-from-london-flats/ I’d try scraping them off first, if that doesn’t give a decent surface, you can’t really re-plaster onto a pre-painted surface and I would re-board and skim. If the plaster is bare of paint, you may be able to re-skim directly.

Next week I’ll talk about durable solutions to the problem of damp floors in rented flats.

Tags: Blog, Maintenance, outside-decorating, PVC-cladding, rich
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on April 13th, 2010 |

Smart Floors in London Flats

Richard Greenland

I wrote about floor coverings specific to bathroom floors last week, this week I’m covering polished boards, engineered wood, carpet tiles and underfloor heating.

Sanded and varnished floorboards remain popular with landlords, even though they’re at least 50% more expensive than carpet and underlay. They’re easy to clean, and with three coats of durable floor varnish should last much longer than carpets. Oil-based polyurethane is more durable than acrylic, but very pungent while drying, which it does slowly. Water-based acrylic dries quickly enough to get three coats on in a day, and without the smell, but is only suited to light-traffic, dry areas (not bathrooms). If the varnish wears thin, you can just sand and varnish them again! This second sanding is a quick job if it’s confined to worn areas.

Unless they’re insulated underneath with something draftproof (fibreglass or multi-foil film, not closed-cell phenolic foam like Xtratherm or Celotex), it’s vital to caulk the gaps between boards, or your tenants will be cold. Matching-colour caulk will do, or clear silicone.

sanded floor with skirting and door off

In the picture I’ve sanded the floor with the skirting boards and door off (you can see them upright in the corners), to get right into the corners. Also it’s easier to paint skirtings on a bench than on the floor, and avoids paint marks on the varnished boards. Correct sequencing of work saves time and raises quality.

‘Engineered wood’ is for high-end rentals only. It resembles solid wood but clicks together tightly like laminate. It has a surface of decorative wood such as oak a few mm thick, backed by plywood. Like solid wood, if worn it can be sanded and varnished again. If it gets wet it’ll swell and the joints will blow.

I’m not a fan of underfloor heating as electric heating isn’t very green. It needs to be insulated thoroughly to avoid massive heat loss to the soil below. To avoid problems, it must be taken right to the edges of the floor. If there are cool and warm spots, differences in thermal expansion can cause tiles to crack. Joints in laminates and wooden floors may open due to the desiccating effect of being heated.

Carpet tiles are intended for office or commercial spaces, but are great for typical student lets or other low-end rentals. They’re very hard-wearing and can be replaced square by square if fouled or left with tell-tale iron-shaped scorch marks.

Next week I’ll write about central heating, boilers and insulation.

Tags: Blog, floors, Maintenance, Property, rich
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on February 1st, 2010 |

Flat out to keep bathroom floors flat in London flats!

Richard Greenland

Last week I wrote about carpets and laminate floors. I said I’d write about floors for bathrooms this week, and waterproof laminate flooring in particular, so here goes.

I never fit MDF based laminate floor in bathrooms. I’ve seen products which claim to be suitable for bathrooms, made of very highly compressed MDF with a high resin content. These products are still not truly waterproof, the moisture always gets into the joints somehow, curls up the edges and they don’t stay flat. There’s a new product called Aquastep, made by Quickstep, which isn’t a laminate in the true sense as it’s entirely plastic, so impervious to water. I fitted a room with it recently for a client and it goes down quite well. It’s expensive at about £25 a square metre, so at that price, it’s worth considering fitting tiles instead.

Tiles are probably the best option for durability in the bathroom if you can afford them. They can’t be fixed straight to a wooden floor, but need a backing board of a minimum 12mm plywood, with lots of screws holding it down to stabilise the existing floor, which also needs to be screwed down thoroughly to the joists beneath. I recommend using powdered adhesive, not ready-mixed, if the tiles are likely to remain wet for any length of time. Ready-mixed can soften if left wet for too long. With the extra work and materials involved, tiles will probably cost a bit more than the Aquastep flooring all-in, unless you can get a very cheap deal on the tiles, but tiles laid properly are incredibly durable. Be careful not to fit tiles which are slippery when wet!

Engineered wood is a bad idea in bathrooms for the same reason as laminate – water gets into the joints and curls them up at the edges.

natural wood floor surprisingly resilient in bathroom

Oddly enough, solid wood varnished tongue and groove boards perform better than you might think. They swell a bit, but the pre-existing gaps between the boards disguise this so they still look OK.

Vinyl is of course far and away the cheapest alternative. It’s impervious to water, quick and easy to fit, and can be surprisingly durable IF your tenants aren’t too hard on it. It’ll tear with hard use or if heavy objects, such as washing machines, are dropped or dragged along it. Personally I favour vinyl in kitchens and bathrooms because it’s sooooo much cheaper than anything else and I trust my tenants to be sensible, but this is down to the discretion of the landlord.

That about raps it up for this week. Ill write about polished boards, engineered wood and underfloor heating over the next week or two.

Tags: bathroom, Blog, floor, Maintenance, Property, rich
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on January 25th, 2010 |

Don’t get floored by unsuitable floor coverings.

Richard Greenland

Last week’s blog was about taps, this week I’m covering floors (literally!)

I’ll consider the most popular coverings first. Most UK flats and houses have carpets in some rooms. But not all have underlay. Did you know that underlay can actually make your carpet last longer, thereby paying for itself? Especially on uneven floors, where it smoothes over and spreads out any raised wear points, such as floorboard joints, or on the nosing of steps. The result is a softer, more luxurious floor covering effectively for free! This is less significant on perfectly smooth floors without steps, or if you have poor tenants who make the carpet too dirty to clean.

Turned-pile carpet tends to be more durable than cut-pile, although I think cut-pile is nicer. Foam-backed carpet performs poorly and is on its way out. A modern alternative is felt backing, which is soft like foam, but doesn’t perish and fall apart.

Quickstep laminate on turned-pile carpet

Laminate flooring remains popular and can be very durable, but is far more expensive per square metre than carpet. It’s also hugely variable in cost, but for my money you get what you pay for. I only fit Quickstep Classic in my own properties, and advise clients to do the same (they don’t always listen, but that’s their prerogative). Quickstep is not cheap, but it clicks together in a way which inspires confidence, is easy to lay (thereby saving time on fitting), and is durable. The picture shows Quickstep Classic on the newly-laid closed-pile carpet in one of my flats.

At the other end of the scale, I was called in at short notice last year to fit laminate to a 90 square metre shop floor. Their own carpenter had bottled it, and they were due to open on Monday. It was Saturday! They had already bought the laminate from Ikea, and I could see from the chipped corners that it was very poor quality. I agreed on condition that if it came apart I could not be held responsible. Sure enough the joints soon failed in high traffic areas, and they will have to replace it again soon. Fortunately the shop has been a roaring success so they can afford better materials this time!

The other problem with laminate is that most are extremely susceptible to water damage. I have a rolling contract to replace laminate floors for an insurance company. Most damage was as a result of a leaking washing machine or radiator. Carpets could have been cleaned and dried, but the MDF in laminate swells and the joints blow. On this basis, I never fit MDF based laminate floor in a bathroom, even if it claims it’s OK for that purpose.

I’ll look at water-resistant laminate flooring, polished boards, vinyl, ceramic and stone tiles, engineered wood, underfloor heating, and suitable flooring for bathrooms over the next couple of weeks.

Tags: carpet, flooring, laminate, Maintenance, Property, rich
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on January 19th, 2010 |

High spec fans and low rent vents

Richard Greenland

Last week I covered the effect of porous bathroom and kitchen tiles on your silicone, buying second-hand kitchens, keeping pipes hidden but accessible, and keeping window glass ventilated from inside. This week I’ll discuss fans and cooker hoods.

You can spend over £500 on a cooker hood if you really want, and yes more expensive hoods may be more powerful, but they all do a similar job, so for anything other than a very high-end flat, why would you? I got a perfectly good stainless steel one for £45 from Ikea. With fans on the other hand, I believe in spending a bit more money. Vent Axia are near-bulletproof and go on forever. My father has two in his house dating from the late 1970s. They get used every day and have never failed.

cooker hood vent before passing through hole in bathroom wall (top right)

The crucial thing with hoods, if you can, is to throw away the charcoal filter that comes with them and vent them properly to the outside. Filters quickly clog with grease and need replacement every 3 months or so. Are you or your tenants really going to do that? Yet if it gets neglected airborne particles will form greasy deposits on all the interior surfaces in the flat and stain your paintwork. Venting cookers can be tricky, particularly in London flats where the cooker may not be on an outside wall. But it’s even more worth it when you consider that building regulations will accept only a 100 mm vent if directly above the cooker in a hood. Otherwise, they will require a much larger and more expensive 150 mm vent, even if it’s very close to the cooker.

While we’re on vents, if you’re using cheap builders then I strongly suggest you check they do actually vent the flues to the outside. A landlord friend’s tenants were complaining that the roof was leaking. He couldn’t understand as it was a brand new conversion to flats, and the building inspector had just signed off all the work. As soon as I went into the loft I could see there was a problem. Everything was wringing wet and covered in a film of blue-grey mould. Water was dripping through the kitchen ceiling. The cause? Condensation! The builders had vented both the kitchen and bathroom fans directly into the loft. As soon as the warm damp air hit the cold roof, it condensed out and soaked everything. Because building inspectors don’t normally even go into lofts (grrrr!) he hadn’t seen the botch they’d made. I sorted the problem in a few hours with some flexible ducting, four long jubilee clips, and two special flue tiles which fit onto the roof. It beggars belief that anyone calling themselves a builder would do anything so crass, but I guess some people don’t care about repeat business. Also some landlords cut corners when they really shouldn’t, but often you get what you pay for.

I’ll consider different types of taps next week.

Tags: Blog, fans, Maintenance, Property, rich, vents
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on January 5th, 2010 |

Kitchen Cabinets

Richard Greenland

I talked about kitchen cabinets last week, and was going to cover taps and hoods this week, but after a number of private emails and questions here I’m adding in a few important addendums.

Re. kitchen cabinets, many landlords buy second-hand kitchens on ebay. Having fitted these myself I can say that unless you can buy very cheaply, it probably isn’t worth it. You have to remember that the kitchen was designed to go somewhere else, it can be hard to get all the mismatched components to fit properly, some units may already have been customised for the original space, and important instructions may be missing. If your fitter takes a lot longer to fit the kitchen for these reasons then you could end up paying more for a dated kitchen which has already had the best of its life.

box for pipes behind skirting

It’s important to keep services (water and gas) as accessible as possible to facilitate repairs. Last week I neglected to mention that where possible I like to run the pipes under the kitchen cabinets so that if there is a problem they can easily be got at by popping off the kickers at the bottom. This is much easier than accessing services which are set into the wall behind the cabinets! Where there are no cabinets, services in kitchens can be put into a neat box behind a skirting set out from the wall, with a top of MDF, rather than set into the wall. The photo shows a box for pipes which then pass beneath a kitchen cabinet.

A few weeks back Paul asked how to stop silicone bathroom sealant from mildewing. I recently replaced some mouldy silicone where the grout was cracked and the tiles were somewhat porous, allowing water to get behind, where it ran down and accumulated behind the silicone. As well as replacing the silicone, I renewed the grout and cleaned then sealed the tiles with a silicone-based tile sealing solution. This should prevent the problem recurring. Client-permitting I would have replaced the grout with epoxy grout, which is completely impervious to water and also less prone to cracking. By the way I do NOT recommending sealing floor tiles unless they already have a strong texture. Sealing solution can make floor tiles very slippery and dangerous when wet.

Also it’s wise to make sure that blinds work properly in damp rooms such as bathrooms or kitchens. My tenants hadn’t wanted to bother me about a broken blind, so had left it permanently closed in the bathroom, then wondered why they had damp around the window. The blind had prevented proper ventilation to the glass, condensation ran down accumulating on the sill, then soaked up the wall which became very mildewed. A new blind should rectify this problem.

Hopefully I’ll be able to talk about taps and cooker hoods next week.

Tags: Blog, Kitchens, Maintenance, Property, rich
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on December 28th, 2009 |

Classy Kitchen Cabinets

Richard Greenland

In the last post I talked about how appropriate choice of sink could have a bearing on the longevity of your worktops. Now I’m going to consider kitchen cabinet units. Actually there’s really not much choice with these as all the major manufacturers make them of melamine (plastic) coated chipboard, either 15mm or 18mm thick. You can pay more for 18mm but it’s still basically the same low-quality material which is very susceptible to water damage. The other difference is that a few (notably Ikea) make units with no service gap at the back. This is great if you have smooth walls with no surface-running pipes or wires, as it allows your tenants an extra 10cm of storage space within, but they can be a problem to fit otherwise. Also Ikea units don’t go together quite like other types, so your carpenter may grumble unless he’s done them before. Howden’s also offer a great trade-only service and can be very competitive on price, for inexpensive kitchens that look classy.

Of course the alternative is a bespoke kitchen but since these can come to the price of a decent executive car, strictly for very high-end flats only!

Adel birch unit being installed

With the doors you have a choice of solid wood or veneered MDF board. I always go for solid wood as it is much more durable – nothing expands in water like MDF! My flats are all newly converted so I’m fitting Ikea cabinets for the extra space, with Adel solid birch doors. They are light and contemporary and look great with black or grey granite.

I fit pelmets below the wall units to cover the low-voltage underlighting. I don’t fit cornice as I think it’s unnecessary. Again I like Ikea because they use a real wood veneer on the moulded MDF, not printed plastic which feels cheap and is very hard to work with.

With the plinths (kickers) below the floor units, it’s important to fit the plastic track underneath which should come with them, to protect them from water damage when the floor is washed. I like to get a spare bit to protect the end panels too, or at least spread clear silicone sealant underneath them to water-seal the wood.

I’ve run out of space to talk about taps, but hope to discuss the different types, and maybe cooker hoods too next week.

Tags: Blog, Maintenance, Property, rich
Posted in Property, Repair Free Rentals on December 22nd, 2009 |

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Fire Prevention.

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Annual Pre-emptive Maintenance.

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Alternative Double Glazing

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Durable Outside Decorating for Rented London Flats

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Flat out to keep bathroom floors flat in London flats!

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Don’t get floored by unsuitable floor coverings.

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