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Woodworm

Richard Greenland

Woodworm is much feared by home-owners and landlords alike, and every year millions of pounds is spent on its eradication. But similarly to Dry Rot, there are alternative methods of treating it.

‘Woodworm’ are actually the larvae or grubs of several species of wood-boring insects, of which the common furniture beetle, anobia punctatum is most common in homes. The grubs are only about 6mm long and a little over 1mm wide. I have also come across the deathwatch beetle, xestobium rufovillosum, which has very short, fat grubs about 8mm long and 6mm wide when out of the wood.

There is some misinformation on the internet which claims that woodworm only affects new timber brought into the house already infected from the sawmill. The claim is that after a few years the infection will be gone so no treatment is necessary. This misunderstanding is down to confusion with other species of wood-boring insects that have this habitat.

Common woodworm prefer seasoned wood. Their larval stage is 3 – 4 years, which they spend burrowing through the softer, more nutritious sapwood. They will attack hardwoods and softwoods, but avoid the heartwood of all species. They are particularly fond of old-fashioned plywoods containing highly-nutritious animal-based glues, used in furniture in the earlier part of the 20th century, hence the name ‘furniture beetle’. Exiting adult beetles can mate and re-infect the same wood again.

Exit holes showing fresh dust.

Furniture beetle shows itself by boring 1 – 1.5mm exit holes in the wood. The exit holes for the rarer Deathwatch beetle are much bigger. Fresh exit holes are indicated by a fine dusting of wood powder. Without the dust, the holes may be very old and no indication of current infestation.

For many years the standard treatment has been spraying affected timbers with insecticides, sometimes with serious health consequences to workers and occupants. Fortunately the more highly toxic chemicals like Lindane and tributyltin oxide aren’t used much now, and less toxic treatments such as Borax have taken over. Still, the question is whether chemical treatment is justified at all. The chemical treatment may not penetrate the wood deeply enough to reach the grubs.

All animals require moisture, and wood-boring insects are no different. I have observed woodworm prefers damp homes and the damper the wood, the more heavy the infestation. Modern homes kept dry should have few problems with woodworm, as the wood effectively becomes a desert incapable of supporting the grubs.

Regarding treatment, in structural timbers, isolate sources of moisture such as damp walls / floors from the wood with a plastic DPM (Damp Proof Membrane). Reduce the humidity by installing efficient central heating and extraction systems for bathrooms and kitchens. If necessary get a dehumidifier. For furniture, move it away from outside walls, reducing condensation on the back. If it’s not precious just get rid of it. Alternatively it may be treatable by drying out completely then leaving in a very dry environment.

If you dry out the wood, you should rid yourself of the pest.

Be Your Own Surveyor, Damp Around Windows and Doors.

Richard Greenland

Last week I wrote about windows and doors and how to spot problems with them. This week I’ll cover their settings in walls, and particularly damp problems around them.

I’ve already written extensively on the four main types of damp – condensation, penetration, rising, and ‘devious’ which covers anything from Jackdaws nests to copper pipes weeping due to being set in corrosive cement.

Like chimneys in roofs, windows and doors are essentially holes in the walls and at constant risk of allowing moisture into the house. They are also cold-spots. Glass is colder than walls and drafts from them tend to cool adjacent walls. This causes condensation, usually in the bottom corners just above the windowboard (the extension to the sill which projects into the room). Water from condensation running off the glass can also puddle directly on the windowboard and damage plaster to the sides. Lack of double-glazing or poor insulation to the walls is the usual cause. Windows in a bathroom also need good ventilation, not covering with a blind as some of my tenants insist on doing!

Condensation damage at bottom of window opening

Damp patches under windowboards are probably penetrating damp. They may indicate a rotten sill allowing rain to soak into the walls. Use the key test mentioned last week. Repairing this is half – one day’s work for your carpenter. This problem should be rarer with modern buildings from the late 1980s on, which should have DPM under the sill.

Or damp under the windowboard could be caused by deterioration of the exterior silicone seal between the window /door frame and walls. Does it look fresh and flexible, or old and cracked? It’s easily replaced by scraping the old silicone off, priming any bare wood, then thoroughly re-sealing with exterior window silicone. Also check the stone or concrete subsill. If it’s cracked or sloping inwards and puddling, that could let in water. These faults are easily corrected with a bit of mortar.

You can prevent rain blowing in under doors with a ‘door drip bar’ or ‘door rain deflector bar’ (try googling these terms) at the bottom of the door outside and plenty of draft-excluders inside. You can also prevent rain blowing in over an outward opening door or window by fixing a thin metal one over the window. Alternatively a 2″ x 1″ wooden bar with a groove underneath to make the water drip off the edge will do. It’s a good idea to use a durable hardwood, and to slope the top of the bar outwards.

I may talk about fascias and soffits next week.

Rich

These blogs are not intended to replace the services of a surveyor, engineer or other professional. They may however help save you the expense of a surveyor for a duff building that you won’t buy.

Devious Damp

Richard Greenland

Last week I covered condensation, this week it’s unusual sources of damp, including jackdaws!

People often mistake rising damp (rises up the walls) for penetrating damp (comes through the building skin above ground level) and vice versa. Building skin means walls, roof, windows. Condensation is often mistaken for both, and can produce massive amounts of water. A domestic dehumidifier can remove ten litres of water or more a day, an astonishing amount from the atmosphere.

Dehumidifiers are great little machines, and unlike ventilators won’t bring cold air in making your tenants suffer. But they shouldn’t be necessary if the building’s skin is properly waterproofed and insulated properly (see last weeks blog).

Unusual sources of damp:

‘Rising damp’ caused by a copper water pipe in a cement floor without a plastic sleeve. The alkali in the cement caused corrosion, so a leak, not rising damp.

A friend’s property suffered damp walls where his tenants piled earth against the outside walls above DPC level. This is quite common.

Another friend had a ‘roof leak’ caused by his ‘cheap’ builders venting the cooker and bathroom fans directly into the loft. So no roof leak but an extreme example of condensation. It’s quite common for roofs with old fashioned non-breathable bituminous felt to have condensation issues – you can see the water droplets glistening if you shine a light on them. They can run down inside the roof and through the ceiling, fooling occupants into thinking the roof is leaking. The problem can usually be solved by unblocking eaves vents and fitting ridge vents.

Several others, including the gym where I train, had ‘leaky walls’ caused by leaks in lead roof gulleys. These commonly run front to back in Bristol over the party walls (stupid idea). When they leak the walls get wet.

Damp high up in walls is often caused by splashing hoppers (water collectors between gutter and downpipe). When it rains, water splashes over the walls and soaks in. A strip of lead as a shield usually solves the problem. I’ve seen this cause damp two metres down and 1.5 meters across from the point of entry, on the party wall! The usual suspect would therefore be the roof gully, but no, it was the hopper!

gaps between soffit and cement can channel water in

Rain running between asbestos or slate soffits on gable end roofs is common. These hold up cement sealing the tile edges. The cement cracks letting water in. Silicone provides a solution, but it needs re-inspection every few years.

Iron downpipes let into walls can corrode at the back and inject water into the wall.

‘Rising damp’ at the bottom of window frames is usually condensation caused by poor insulation, or rain blowing in around the sides and underneath the window. Easily cured with a silicone gun.

Mysterious water drops can appear anywhere on ceilings and bear little relation to the original penetration point. Rain can blow under tiles or slate if the roof pitch is shallow and sarking (felt) is damaged or absent. It then runs down the sarking and exits elsewhere. Next it runs along the ceiling until it finds an exit point, a light rose or plasterboard joint. Tracing it can involve some detective work in the loft with a torch when it rains.

decaying chimneys are just a big leaky hole in your roof

Porous chimneys often cause damp on chimney breasts and ceilings. Water gets in where plants grow in the mortar. Acid from burnt fuel also attacks mortar. Lead soakers and aprons around chimneys corrode and leak. The best thing to do with an unused chimney is take it down and get rid of it. Failing this, unused vents can be capped with cement, slate and bricks, and the chimney coated with waterproof render.

Genuine penetrating damp can appear behind loose outside rendering. If you tap it with a screwdriver handle and it sounds hollow, it’s partially detached and may be providing a conduit for moisture.

What about damp meters? ‘Damp Surveyors’ (i.e. salesmen) use electronic damp meters to measure damp on walls etc. They’re just as good at measuring condensation as other forms of damp, but can be pretty persuasive in the hands of the damp-man that you have a serious problem. Likewise I know an investor who uses one to persuade vendors that THEY have a serious problem. Beware!

Finally, the mysterious Jackdaws. They love nesting in chimneys. When they leave the nests falls down and accumulate where the chimney steps diagonally inside. It rains and the old nests are like a sponge, holding moisture, which leaches through walls drawing brown sooty stains with it. Having the chimney cleaned and capped will stop the problem.

A long blog this but there’s a lot in it… Anyone else got any unusual damp stories? Next week I’ll cover Double Glazing, and some cheaper alternatives.

Rich

These blogs are not intended to replace the services of a surveyor, engineer or other professional. They may however help save you the expense of a surveyor for a duff building that you won’t buy.

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