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Annual Pre-emptive Maintenance.

Richard Greenland

Last week I looked at cheaper alternatives to brand new double glazing. This week I’ll discuss inexpensive jobs you should do at the outset of any new tenancy and annually to avoid expensive repairs later.

For safety reasons, landlords are obliged to carry out gas checks annually, and appliances should be PAT tested. However, cost-wise water is usually the biggest problem. Checking and maintaining any fittings & equipment likely to leak is incredibly cost-effective.

Washing machines should be inspected annually for slow leaks from the hose, door-seal and underneath. Even a slow leak can cause a lot of damage over time, or suddenly become a fast leak!

Other common problem areas are waste pipes under the bath, shower, sinks, basins and toilet cisterns, as well as the shower hose. These are usually screw or push fittings and can become loose. While the bath panel is off, look for signs of water running behind the silicone. Also check the silicone around the shower, and behind the kitchen sink.

Rain water and damp are the other main causes of water problems. Gutters should be checked for blockages after the autumn fall. Visit on a rainy day to make sure water isn’t sloshing over the top and down your walls. It can soak in causing damp patches inside. Also check overflow pipes aren’t dripping. A ball valve in the loft, or on a toilet cistern, is cheap to replace compared to rot caused by penetrating moisture. I dealt with other forms of damp in the last four-blogs-but-one.

Isolation valves under sink

Prepare for the worst and avoid additional costs. Install isolation valves to every outlet, avoiding having to turn off the whole system to repair a leaking tap washer, at massive inconvenience to tenants.

Airbricks should be kept clear to allow ventilation to potentially damp basements. Floors above ventilated basements should be insulated, and NEVER have bare floorboards, unless the gaps between have been thoroughly sealed with matching-colour caulk or silicone. Without the gap-sealing, the rooms will be very cold and drafty. If they have any choice, your tenants will leave.

Drains should be inspected for fatty deposits, and debris blocking drain grids removed.

Roof tiles & chimney mortar joints should be visually checked from the ground (gritty deposits falling down chimneys is a sign of problems).

Also check silicone seals around windows and doors. These can let in a lot of water, especially at the bottom.

Make sure any outward-opening doors can be hooked back, otherwise the wind can blow them off.

These things don’t cost much to do but cost a lot NOT to do. Most structural damage to properties could easily be avoided with a little forethought.

Fire is the other major hazard, fortunately much rarer than flooding but even more devastating. I’ll discuss it next week.

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Flat out to keep bathroom floors flat in London flats!

Richard Greenland

Last week I wrote about carpets and laminate floors. I said I’d write about floors for bathrooms this week, and waterproof laminate flooring in particular, so here goes.

I never fit MDF based laminate floor in bathrooms. I’ve seen products which claim to be suitable for bathrooms, made of very highly compressed MDF with a high resin content. These products are still not truly waterproof, the moisture always gets into the joints somehow, curls up the edges and they don’t stay flat. There’s a new product called Aquastep, made by Quickstep, which isn’t a laminate in the true sense as it’s entirely plastic, so impervious to water. I fitted a room with it recently for a client and it goes down quite well. It’s expensive at about £25 a square metre, so at that price, it’s worth considering fitting tiles instead.

Tiles are probably the best option for durability in the bathroom if you can afford them. They can’t be fixed straight to a wooden floor, but need a backing board of a minimum 12mm plywood, with lots of screws holding it down to stabilise the existing floor, which also needs to be screwed down thoroughly to the joists beneath. Alternatively, if the floor is likely to be wet for long periods, use a specialist tile backing board, such as Aquapanel or Hardibacker.

I recommend using powdered adhesive, not ready-mixed, if the tiles are likely to remain wet for any length of time. Ready-mixed can soften if left wet for too long. With the extra work and materials involved, tiles will probably cost a bit more than the Aquastep flooring all-in, unless you can get a very cheap deal on the tiles, but tiles laid properly are incredibly durable. Be careful not to fit tiles which are slippery when wet!

Engineered wood is a bad idea in bathrooms for the same reason as laminate – water gets into the joints and curls them up at the edges.

natural wood floor surprisingly resilient in bathroom

Oddly enough, solid wood varnished tongue and groove boards perform better than you might think. They swell a bit, but the pre-existing gaps between the boards disguise this so they still look OK.

Vinyl is of course far and away the cheapest alternative. It’s impervious to water, quick and easy to fit, and can be surprisingly durable IF your tenants aren’t too hard on it. It’ll tear with hard use or if heavy objects, such as washing machines, are dropped or dragged along it. Personally I favour vinyl in kitchens and bathrooms because it’s sooooo much cheaper than anything else and I trust my tenants to be sensible, but this is down to the discretion of the landlord. It’s also a good idea to stick the edges down with double sided tape or silicone. Don’t use solvented adhesives like Gripfill as they may dissolve the vinyl.

That about raps it up for this week. Ill write about polished boards, engineered wood and underfloor heating over the next week or two.

Futureproofing your bathroom

Richard Greenland

Richard Greenland

Bathrooms are a constant drain on resources for most landlords, and often the most problematic room in any flat. But many of the problems can be easily prevented by being pro-active, anticipating further problems, and using the correct materials when performing repairs.

So, next time the silicone lets water down the back of the bath and into the flat below, follow this simple procedure. First, thoroughly clear any old sealant out from the gap, scrape the surfaces with a Stanley knife, then clean with a scouring pad and detergent to remove all traces of soap scum, loose tile grout or mould. Next fill the bath with water. A bath can contain up to ¼ tonne of water, and this can make it sink slightly and open up the gap between the bath and tiles. This can tear the silicone away from the gap once it is set. The bath is filled BEFORE siliconing to avoid this, allowing more silicone in, meaning it will be in slight compression (safe) when the bath is empty, and not in tension (danger of tearing) when the bath is full. Next, wipe the gap dry with a clean cloth, then allow it time to dry completely. Now you are ready to apply the silicone!

Tiles in a wetroom ready for grouting

Tiles in a wetroom ready for grouting

I always use a good quality one-part silicone sealant, never ‘acrylic silicone’ or other cheaper non-branded products. This really does matter! The good ones are far more adhesive and more resilient, and have better fungicides also. I prefer Dow-Corning but others may be just as good. Be sure to allow sufficient time for it to set before emptying the bath. 24 hours is good, longer if you can.

Note that ALL movement joints in a shower or wetroom should be siliconed. This means where two walls meet, or where a wall joins the floor. It is easier with silicone than with grout, anyway!

Finally I like to grout after the silicone has been set.

Next week I will explain what to do if the damp problem has spread beyond the silicone and into the walls, or if tiles have become loose.

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